Spanish photographs from James Loveday

Amongst the pages of our recent Spain magazine was a story dedicated to Lanzarote, the largest of the Canary Islands. Photographs of this volcanic paradise - a destination dotted with unusual wineries, otherworldly landscapes, the art and architect César Manrique (who is largely responsible for preserving the island’s pristine natural beauty), golden sand and turquoise waters - had us smitten. So we were thrilled when photographer James Loveday shared his own images of Lanzarote (paired here with words from Mercedes Catalan), and we were able to travel vicariously anew. A winter escape to the Canary Archipelago may be very much on the cards…

To learn more about Lanzarote and beyond, check out our Spain magazine. For now, prepare to get swept up in the visual wanderlust.

“Famed for its black sand and glittering water, Lanzarote is cherished by those craving brilliant weather - and even better beaches - regardless of the season. But it also whispers to those hoping to glimpse something sublime; a place of art and splendour that somehow calms the soul.

The north-easternmost island in the Canary archipelago, Lanzarote is also the oldest, shaped by volcanic eruptions about 15-million years ago. Approaching from the air, you’re struck by the landscape’s drama. I spied almost 50 volcanic cones emerging from the rust and ochre earth, the Martian terrain dotted with white villages and contrasted by the dazzling blue of the Atlantic Ocean. It was a sight to behold - and I felt a connection the moment I landed.”

“Although the island has more than two-million visitors every (non-pandemic) year, Lanzarote still feels a little undiscovered. Local artist and architect César Manrique (1919-1992) had a lot to do with this. He shaped the tourism industry here, ensuring it remained respectful of cultural traditions and the environment. Thanks to César, the number of resorts is restricted, concentrated mostly in the busy coastal towns of Puerto del Carmen and Playa Blanca. Lanzarote’s other towns and villages haven’t grown that much, and many of the island’s most astounding wonders are a symbiosis between art and nature - as their creator César Manrique liked to describe them. Jameos del Agua, Jardín del Cactus, Mirador del Río, Cueva de los Verdes, the restaurant at Timanfaya National Park, and the artist’s two residences - his volcano house in Taro de Tahiche and the Palm Grove house in Haría - are extraordinary examples of how to combine volcanic elements with architectural form.”

“Timanfaya National Park is the island’s most impressive natural attraction. Here the surreal landscape,striking sweep of volcanic cones, ancient lava fields and heat emanating from the earth make you feel as ifyou’re on another planet. It’s little wonder NASA used this terrain for training. And then there’s perhaps the best kept secret, Lanzarote’s rare and remarkable wine. Grapes are grown in La Gería - home to Bodega El Grifo, one of Spain’s oldest wineries - with delicate Malvasía vines planted in hollows of volcanic soil, dug into the ground to protect them from the wind and preserve the limited humidity.”

As a photographer, I usually plan my trips meticulously, looking for picturesque places and hidden spots to capture with my camera. But I confess that this time, I did not. Perhaps because I was simply hoping to relax for a week, recharging my batteries to endure the cold winter ahead. Or maybe because I had apreconceived idea about what I was going to find. Whatever the reason, I am happy I didn’t do much research. This way, I let Lanzarote surprise me. With my trusty rental car, I travelled to every corner of theisland, discovering otherworldly landscapes, meeting warm people, indulging in the simple but scrumptious local gastronomy, getting lost in sunsets and learning about the fascinating work of César Manrique. After a week in Lanzarote, I left the island of volcanoes with two thoughts: I want to continue exploring the smallest and least known islands in the Canary archipelago and, of course, return to Lanzarote to capture more of its secrets.

Mercedes’ words first appeared - with her photographs - in our Spain magazine.