Words & Photographs by Daisy Wingate-Saul

Arriving in Colombo on New Year's Day, a monsoon’s final punch hits hard as rain pours down in sheets. My partner and I duck into a bar on Galle Face Green, the air thick with shisha smoke and house beats. The city’s chaotic energy is palpable. We order a sizzling prawn curry; ferocious Sri Lankan spices, tamarind and prawns bathed in coconut milk, cutting through the jetlag like a blade. My first real taste of Sri Lanka is fiery and beautiful. 

Captivating as the capital is, I’ve travelled to this island nation for a jungle escape, so, after a few days acclimatising in Colombo, I board the train to Ahangama. As it rolls down the coast, vendors peddle fried snacks and sweet chai, and the frenetic pulse of the city fades as the vegetation thickens.

 In Ahangama, the surf’s up and the party’s on, with digital nomads toned and tanned surfers lounging in beachside bars. Just a stone’s throw away, Trebartha East Roundhouse sits atop a cinnamon plantation, surrounded by jungle - its own world, yet still close to the buzz of Ahangama.

Once abandoned and overtaken by jungle, owners Patrick and Benny have restored the cinnamon plantation, creating local jobs and embracing sustainable practices. Architect Narein Perera has designed a stunning tribute to Tropical Modernism, and today the house serves as a boutique hotel and a utopia for nature lovers. 

The architecture of Trebartha East blends seamlessly with nature. The property has just four rooms, each named after a native wood and encircled by mature trees. Locally sourced timber and folding glass walls invite the outdoors in, while overhead fans stir the breeze. Panoramic views surround the retreat; peacocks glide from their jungle perch at sunrise and golden light bathes the property at sunset, which is best enjoyed with a cocktail by the pool.

Mornings are slow and soothing, with traditional Sri Lankan breakfasts: warm string hoppers, fragrant curries, and chilled herbal soup to ease the remnants of a night spent sipping passionfruit cocktails in Ahangama. Whether you're surfing or lounging by the pool, it’s easy to fall into the rhythm of this peaceful retreat, where time slows and nature feels closer.

You can read more about Daisy’s Sri Lanka adventure in our upcoming ‘Islands’ issue - and learn about Trebartha East here.