Words & Photographs by Chiara Dalla Rosa
The sun is shining as I touch down in Halifax. Fresh off a direct flight from London, I already know I’m going to adore this vibrant coastal city. I’ve come to Nova Scotia for a road trip, keen to delve into the province’s layered history, and I’m kicking things off with a few days in the capital. My adventure begins with a roam around the Queen’s Marque District, a newly developed waterfront neighbourhood. This downtown area blends sleek modern architecture and public art installations with the city’s maritime heritage, offering a perfect introduction to Halifax's eclectic charm.
For a unique perspective, I board the Harbour Hopper, a thrilling amphibious tour. As the vehicle splashes into the harbour (one of the world’s largest and deepest), I marvel at the view of the skyline from the water. It’s a fun, splash-filled way to drink in the city’s coastal beauty - and it’s staggering to think that, stunning as this is, I’m only glimpsing a tiny portion of the province’s 13,000 kilometres of seacoast.
As the day draws to a close, jet lag begins to hit me, so I settle in for dinner, grateful for the opportunity to unwind. At Drift, I savour a delightful array of local dishes (elevated interpretations of classic Atlantic Canadian offerings) paired with aromatic Nova Scotian wines. This is my first time tasting Canadian wine, and I’m already planning to bring a few bottles home with me - if you’re curious about local tipples, the Nova Scotia Good Cheer Trail is another road trip route worth tackling as it takes in more than 80 wine, beer and spirit producers. As I ride the lift up to my room at the MUIR Hotel, my cosy retreat for the night, I feel a surge of anticipation for the culture, history and lobster-packed road trip ahead.
The following morning, I make my way up the hill overlooking the city to the Citadel, which marks the site where the British military established Halifax in 1749. Today, it serves as a museum, hosting a variety of permanent and rotating exhibitions. While visiting, I found myself on the verge of tears as I delved into the intricate history of Nova Scotia, which has been shaped by the land’s Indigenous peoples, and those who arrived later. This experience was profoundly eye-opening, revealing the diverse lives, struggles and cultures that have woven together to form the rich tapestry of Nova Scotia's past.
It may have only been a short drive away, but Peggy’s Cove feels like another world. Wondrously picturesque, it’s famed for its lighthouse and vibrant fishing sheds, stoic buildings that can withstand the wrath of the Atlantic and have inspired generations of artists. Continuing on through South Shore, I take in the rugged, rocky coastline and towns like Mahone Bay, with its churches and galleries, and the charming fishing village of Blue Rocks, both of which seem to belong to another era entirely.
While the road trip route I follow is sublime - wending its way to Lunenburg (famed for its UNESCO-listed Old Town - best explored as part of a Taste of Lunenburg Walking Tour), White Point Beach, the historic Loyalist Town of Shelburne, and the Southwest Nova Biosphere Reserve - it’s the chance to connect with the region’s rich cultural heritage that I find most powerful.
I began to understand more of the peninsula’s layered history at the Millbrook Cultural and Heritage Centre, which is dedicated to telling the story of the Mi'kmaq people, who have inhabited this land for more than 13,000 years, and whose peaceful existence was harshly disrupted by colonisation. The Centre, home to a wide collection of Mi'kmaw artefacts and exhibits, serves as an important place for the Mi'kmaq community throughout Nova Scotia. It's not only a bridge to their past, but a beacon for preserving and celebrating their enduring culture, which is deeply spiritual and grounded in respect for nature.
And then there are the Acadians, settlers from France who reached Nova Scotia in the 17th century, arriving at what is now Port-Royal and the Fortress of Louisbourg. They lived harmoniously alongside the Indigenous people, fostering a spirit of peaceful coexistence. Today, this legacy is celebrated at Le Village Historique Acadien de la Nouvelle Écosse, an immersive historical village that invites you to step back in time and experience the daily life and customs of the Acadian people.
Another integral chapter of the province’s early years was the development of African Nova Scotian culture. In Birchtown, the Black Loyalist Heritage Centre offers a powerful overview of the journey undertaken by early Black settlers, tracing their resilience and contributions amidst the challenges they faced. And then there’s Nova Scotia’s ties to Scotland, evident in its name, which is Latin for New Scotland. This province was named by Sir William Alexander in 1621, after receiving the land grant from King James IV of Scotland, with Scottish settlers sent to Nova Scotia to help secure the country’s presence in the New World. Migration again grew in the 18th century, and you can learn about this at Pictou’s Hector Heritage Quay. The centre is meticulously restoring Ship Hector, which transported Scottish settlers across the Atlantic in 1773, and is set to sail again in 2026.
My road trip ends back in Halifax, and as I reflect on the journey over a final lunch at The Bicycle Thief, I can’t quite believe what I’ve been able to see and do. I have gazed across lush swathes of green, and a sea-kissed coastline stretching out along the horizon, its rugged beauty framed by the vast, ever-changing ocean. Winding through rolling hills and coastal communities, I absorbed not just the breathtaking landscapes but echoes of the region’s rich history. The stories of its people – resilient, enduring and ever evolving – now feel more tangible, and I’m leaving with a deeper appreciation for the roots that have shaped this extraordinary place.
If you want to embark on your own Nova Scotia road trip, here are a few restaurants and boltholes to add to your itinerary:
Eat
Some classic dishes to look out for include creamed lobster (the crustacean is sautéed in a cream sauce and served atop buttery toast); oatcakes (which arrived with Scottish migrants); Digby scallops (caught off the Bay of Fundy, which is also where dulse, a delicious red seaweed, flourishes); and donair (spiced beef wrapped in pita and slathered in a sweet garlic sauce that’s laude as the official food of Halifax).
Stay
From cabins made from spruce to surf-side escapes, there is something for whatever you fancy. No matter where you stay, be sure to take your time. Book in for a few nights, strike up conversations, and feel like part of the community.
