A Long Weekend on Galway’s Aran Islands

Stuart Dolby and Helena Dolby guide us across the Aran Islands on Ireland’s wild West Coast, the long-weekend filled with island-hopping, foraging, exceptional views, pioneering hotels and produce (from seaweed to goat’s cheese) worth savouring - an updated story from our Island of Ireland magazine.

Even before our feet touched the ground my only real expectation of Ireland was met. The lush, undulating view from the plane was a stark contrast to the dry yellow stubble that passed for grass back home in London. It had been a particularly arid summer though, so I shouldn't be unfair.

Things became even more vibrant once we set off along the Wild Atlantic Way, bound for the Aran Islands. As we journeyed north from Shannon under surprisingly glorious sunshine, my travelling companion/photographer/wife commented on a freshness in the air, and a deep inhale certainly felt nourishing. 

The faint whiff of smoke let us know that we’d reached our first stop. Burren Smokehouse in Lisdoonvarna produces fine smoked Irish salmon, with owners Birgitta and Peter Curtin winning many an award for their top-notch fish. Guided by Birgitta, we watched as bright orange sides of salmon piled high with salt were rotated, washed and then laid to rest in a large tomb-like kiln. Nothing about the process felt too calculated, everything is done by hand, and their moreish wares are best sampled at Peter’s pub, just next door. 

Peter is the third generation owner of the artefact-filled Roadside Tavern and the title of publican suits him perfectly. Sociable, charming and direct, he interrogated us fleetingly before sharing the first of many stories, including one about the time he was photographed naked in a bathtub by a Pulitzer Prize winner. As he walked us through his microbrewery (Burren Brewery - a local gem), Peter explained his methodology in his own un-succinct way, intersecting every part of the process with a story or two, sometimes relevant, sometimes not, but always entertaining.

Inis Meáin

The afternoon brought more of that fresh Irish air - fresher still as we boarded the ferry to Inis Meáin and watched on as the low sun caused the shrinking mainland to glow, while the startling light danced on the gentle waves.

Inis Meáin - home to around 180 residents - is one of three rocky outposts that make up the Aran Islands. There are divine vistas, walking trails, beehive huts, secluded beaches and rocks in abundance. Indeed, the low stone walls that portion the terrain seem to be more for limestone storage than demarcation. In the past, land here was difficult to farm, known for being both infertile and impenetrable, but in a display of island ingenuity, settlers diligently cultivated a thin layer of soil over much of Inis Meáin from a mix of decomposing seaweed and sand. The result is earth that remains bounteous to this day.  

Inspired by that early resourcefulness, we embarked on a spot of foraging with Aran newcomer Aedín Ni Thiarnaigh, who has been embraced by the Inis Meáin community thanks to her ability to speak Irish, and the time she’s spent listening to locals’ stories as part of her masters in Irish folklore. As well as teaching us all about rare wildflowers and edible flora, Aedín enlightened us on important practical matters: don’t pick harebells if you want to avoid fairies stealing your baby, but do use yarrow and snails for love divination. There is something a little enchanted about Inis Meáin. The odd selkie wouldn’t look out of place.

Our foraging concluded with a salty array of sea vegetables and an appreciation for seaweed as an anti-ageing, life-lengthening wonder food. Sated and sun-kissed, we bid farewell to Aedín and called in at Inis Meáin Restaurant & Suites. 

There are no selkies here either, just immaculately executed luxury abodes and a very fine restaurant created by Ruairí de Blacam, an ingenious chef who was born on Inis Meáin before the island had electricity, and Marie-Thérèse, who has a flair for hosting, design, gardening and marketing. Their five suites are havens, a melange of wood, stone and wool, and feel completely sheltered from the elements; although the immense windows that run the entirety of the property’s north face allow for comfortable viewing of the weather-beaten landscape. 

We were shown around by chef Florian, and I pondered the job description that lured him here. Duties no doubt included pioneering food preparation, growing a range of fruit and veg in unforgiving conditions, keeping bees and showing around nosy tourists. Florian confessed that despite the calmer pace of life on Inis Meáin, he finds himself signing up for more than he would at home in Berlin. His dedication to island life is best demonstrated by the fact he’s joined the swimming group that take daily dips in the sea, despite the single digit temperatures.

Inis Mór

The following morning saw our second ferry trip, not as tranquil as the last. Our destination was the slightly larger Inis Mór, which boasts more bicycles than residents, a profusion of walking trails, and the formidable Dún Aonghase hill fort. With a bit of ground to cover, we hitched a lift from Aran goats’ cheesemaker Gabriel. I felt the 24-seater bus that greeted us was a little overzealous for a fromager, but it soon became apparent that raising a fine herd of goats and making award-winning cheese wasn’t Gabriel's only gig. As an opportunistic businessman, he has put his hand to all sorts, from chauffeuring tourists on a pony and trap as a youngster, to coordinating bespoke island tours for the sort of clientele who arrive by helicopter.

For Gabriel though, his quiet dairy is a retreat, a space to practice the mindful act of cheesemaking. He churns out several types of goat's cheese, all of them delicious - the endorsements by top chefs are testament to this. We had just enough time for a quick introduction to the goats before racing for the last ferry of the day.

With the islands shrinking into the horizon, their remoteness seemed a small price to pay for the experience. The passionate, friendly people, the gorgeous landscape and the abundance of nature all made for an excellent getaway. It left me wondering not whether it’s worth the extra effort to get there, but whether it’s worth staying for good.

For more Irish inspiration, consider a longer journey along the Wild Atlantic Way, or switch off entirely at Breac.House.

And there’s always our Ireland magazine.