Photo Essay: Costa Brava Wandering

Words & Photographs by Emma Lavelle

I never thought I’d spend five days walking along Spain’s Costa Brava coastline, but that’s where I found myself last October, weighed down by both camera bag and backpack as I shot one of Inntravel’s flagship walking holidays, ‘Along the Catalan Coast’. I hiked across wide, sandy beaches, above rocky coves and through shady pine forests, as I followed the Camí de Ronda – pausing en route to dine on padron peppers and salty fries, or wade into the crystalline sea for a refreshing dip. What began as a work assignment became one of my most treasured travel memories as I realised how much I relished being constantly on the move, passing by new scenery without having to worry about where to park or disembarking a train. Walking holidays offer the ultimate freedom to set your own pace.

A tree-lined dirt road in Spain's Costa Brava
A stone staircase leads down to a rocky cove in Spain's Costa Brava
Looking out over tree-covered mountains towards the blue sea in Spain's Costa Brava

Setting off from S’Agaró and ending up in Cala d'Aiguablava, the walking itself was never too strenuous. Other than the occasional scrambling over rocks or climbing steep steps out of a cove, the route set a gentle pace. As a swimming aficionado, I soaked up every opportunity for dips in the picturesque coves we passed by (Cala del Pi, Cala del Paller and Platja Castell being favourites) but there was much more to discover along this trail. Highlights included my evening stroll around Calella de Palafrugell, dining on pintxos at Calau (arrive early to join the locals in the long queue), admiring the traditional fishermen’s huts at Cala S’Alguer, exploring the botanical garden of Cap Roig, and looking back over our entire route from the Sant Sebastià lighthouse.

I may have returned home with a battered pair of walking sandals and a couple of blisters, but these were outweighed by memories of sipping Aperol Spritz at sleepy beach bars, swimming in out-of-the-way coves , and wading through waves when the path was swallowed by the incoming tide. 

For more travel inspiration, check out the Spain magazine.

A sunny terrace overlooking the water. The tables are scattered with wine glasses and shaded with umbrellas
whitewashed buildings surrounded by native trees overlook a quiet cove in Spain's Costa Brava
Two men carry a red canoe away from the water
A man sits bu the sea with his blue kayak. The water is so clear that you can see every rock
An abstract scene of a sunny cover in Spain's Costa Brava
People lie in the sand or enter the clear water in Spain's Costa Brava. The scene is backdropped by a sun-washed cliff
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