Words & Photographs by James Loveday
Zanzibar, a diverse and dazzling archipelago just off Tanzania’s coast, abounds in stunning beaches, equatorial forests and hidden sapphire caves, and boasts a fascinating (and beautiful) capital city full of wonderful sights, smells and flavours. It had long been at the top of my travel wish list and, moments after touching down, my girlfriend and I realised our excitement was justified - we both fell completely and utterly in love.
Our first stop was Bwejuu, just over a hour’s drive from Zanzibar’s tiny airport. The journey in our rented 4x4 took us through Jozani Chwaka Bay National Park as we headed east, following what seemed to be the only road in that direction. We passed tropical rainforest, fruit plantations and roadside stalls aplenty, and were powerless to resist the lure of fresh coconuts and red bananas - which are nigh on impossible to find back home.
Fishing provides a livelihood for many people in Bwejuu (and across Zanzibar), as does the farming of seagrass (alongside tourism, too). Seagrass is gathered predominantly by women and is sought after for beauty and cosmetic products. As a result, beaches here are hives of activity, locals working alongside the tourists wading in the warm water and reclining beneath palm trees.
Our few days in Bwejuu were incredibly relaxing and it was easy to slip into island time; morning strolls as the big tides rolled in and out, leisurely breakfasts of Swahili delicacies in huge Maasai huts, listening to the waves during a beachside dinner and gathering (then returning) shells as the sun set. We did, however, manage to explore a few places nearby in our all-too-short time in the southeast.
Our first trip was to drive back to the Jozani Forest. It is home to a globally important population of Zanzibar red colobus monkeys. Whilst the government park is set up for tourists, and close encounters with these little primates are pretty much guaranteed, they are definitely still wild animals. We were led by a local guide who was clearly invested in and dedicated to the government-sponsored project to conserve the monkeys and their habitat against the many threats they face.
After a humid few hours in the forest, it was wonderful to plunge into the crystal clear waters in Huza Cave. We were the only two visitors and, having paid a modest entrance fee, spent an hour paddling about and using borrowed masks to dive deep into the limestone cave, which seemed to continue far into the earth.
After drying off we drove to the small village of Paje and, after waiting for the cows to clear the car park, went out in search of refreshment. A café selling smoothies and ice-cream had caught our eye, but we were distracted en route by a collection of tailor shops. The vibrant fabrics on display could be converted into whatever look you fancied … pre-smoothie sartorial investments were inevitable.
Boat trips are available from the many beaches of Paje and Jambiani, and we took a sunset cruise on a tiny sailing dhow, and arranged a snorkelling expedition directly with our captain for the following morning. There are many snorkelling and diving hubs across Zanzibar and all have their pros and cons. Tumbatu and Mnemba Island in the north are very popular - but if you’re seeking something more secluded then Chumbe Island, a protected reserve close to Stone Town, is ideal (but more on that later).
One most memorable base - found down a tiny dirt road - was Kilindi, a hotel where every room is its own sanctuary; each comprised of two or three small buildings for the bedroom, bathroom and living area as well as at least one plunge pool … but usually two.
We sat in the garden after arrival, sipping wine overlooking the infinity pool and the beach just beyond. A few days here would restore even the weariest traveller. While the natural beauty should be appeal enough, the food was also outstanding. There were delectable curries at dinner, turmeric ice-cream (brought to us unannounced as we lay by the pool) and a floating Champagne breakfast.
Tourists do operate in a bit of a bubble in Zanzibar, insulated from the poverty in many parts. But the divide is starkest in the north, compared to the more open south-eastern areas and in the capital, Zanzibar City, known also as Stone Town.
Kilindi is around an hour and a half from Stone Town, the road taking in forest, small towns, rolling hills and fruit stalls. Our first stop here was Jafferji House & Spa, which is located on a pedestrianised street in the historic centre. A lavishly renovated merchant’s house - made with nods to Indian, Middle Eastern and Zanzibari design - it reflect the Stone Town aesthetic, which melds a variety of influences into a style unique to Zanzibar.
The Omanis, who ruled until the 19th century, left their Islamic arches and courtyards, as well as their love of coffee. The Indian merchants left intricate, and enormous, carved doors - and heavily influenced the cuisine. We had excellent biryanis, spiced pilau rice and cardamom-infused yoghurt desserts. The Portuguese spent some time in charge too and you can see fabulous tiling across many buildings.
The hectic central spice market - and a spice farm visit - encapsulated the blending of cultures and cuisines. Cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, peppercorns, vanilla, saffron, pineapples, bananas, sugarcane, plantains, cocoa, coffee, jack fruit, mango, coconuts and passion fruits have all come to Zanzibar and thrived, which is why the islands here became known as ‘The Spice Islands’.
Calmed by a day of heady aromas, we watched the sunset from Upendo, a boutique hotel boasting one of the city’s several rooftop restaurants. They recommended a very welcome cocktail, the Dawa, which is a blend of the local spirit Konyagi mixed with honey and lime, and drinking it as the sun sank below the horizon was a joy - as was watching the silhouettes of the busy boats anchored in the port gradually disappear into the darkening sky.
A day trip to the marine nature reserve of Chumbe Island returned us to nature. Set up to protect the island and surrounding reef, a small team of biologists live and work here year-round, and tourist visits are strictly (and rightly) limited. There is an eco-lodge on the island for day-trippers and those staying the night. A substantial Maasai-style hut acts as the schoolroom for visiting classes of local children, the lunchroom for tourists and the communal area where the guides go over their plans - for our visit that day, but also how each visitor helps them to achieve their long term goals.
Returning from our day with coconut crabs, turtles and coral, we decided to indulge at one of the leading restaurants in Stone Town, The Secret Garden. Operated by Emerson Spice Hotel, it is found in roofless ruins and I could easily imagine being an 1920s adventurer, surrounded as I was by carved wooden doors and stairways, intricately painted walls, stone fountains, dazzling stained glass and huge potted palms.
We ate avocado and mango salad, roasted plantain with squash and peppers, biryani curry, and rice spiced with cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. Dessert was berry granita and a fried banana cut into delicate slices, all exquisite.
Our final breakfast on the rooftop of Jafferji House & Spa was tinged with sadness - watching ships sail out of the harbour as we sipped our coffee, leaving seemed impossible.
However, we had one final treat - a tea ceremony in Emerson Spice Hotel’s traditional tea house. Our waiter led us up to a private roof terrace and politely instructed us to remove our shoes before entering - it was all cushions, draped fabrics, low tables and woven fans. We washed our hands in rosewater before being introduced to the fabulous flavours arranged on the table before us. There was lemongrass, ginger, star anise, cloves, cinnamon and cardamom, all admired before our tea was served, accompanied by an assortment of sweet and savoury treats. This experience reflected our journey perfectly, a tranquil celebrations of flavour and tradition, of past and present. Zanzibar is an oasis I long to return to.
