Words & Photographs by Daisy Wingate-Saul
As the dawn light percolates through the curtains, I step onto my fifth-floor balcony, perched above the Adriatic sea. The warm breeze with its salty scent enfolds me like an old friend, dimming memories of a lacklustre London summer. The rich early light bathes the mythical island of Lokrum that lies across the bay, while to the west the city walls rise from the sea, ready to reveal Dubrovnik’s treasures.
At the heart of my journey lies the 5-star seafront Hotel Excelsior, seamlessly blending historic villa charm with a modern six-story glass-fronted tower. Its contemporary interiors, seafront terraces, spa, indoor pool, secluded beach and three restaurants create an alluring oasis, yet its proximity to the old town calls for adventure.
The Old Town unveils its true charm in the early morning. As I stroll through cobbled streets, soft buttery light bathes the sandstone buildings and their iconic Dubrovnik-green shutters. From the city walls, sweeping views of Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque facades frame the Dalmatian coast. In the Franciscan friary and church on Placa, adorned with ancient frescoes, a nun shops at one of Europe's oldest pharmacies as swifts dart through the cloisters above.
At dusk, Dubrovnik transforms once again. The cruise ship tourists depart and locals gather by the waterside. Leather-skinned beach veterans swim backstroke and the city wears its finest peachy hues. Just outside the city walls, theatrical waiters at restaurant Posat present guests with live lobsters and large slippery fish as they set the stage for an extraordinary night of feasting.
We dine on the terrace of Hotel Supetar, the charming boutique sibling of Excelsior, in the picturesque town of Cavtat nestled amid the majestic Dinaric Alps. We eat rabbit ragu that transcends the ordinary, while artist-in-residence Iva Laterza Obuljen shares the inspirations behind her expansive architectural abstract pieces. Her formative years within the city walls during the 1991 battle for independence infuse her art with even deeper meaning.
The hotel arranges private yacht rides that unveil secluded beaches and azure caves along the stunning coastline. After morning aquatic adventures we dock at Lopud Island's eatery, La Villa and with the clear water as our backdrop we indulge in luxurious seafood and meat dishes including highlights like local truffle risotto, scallops with foie gras and spiny lobster tail. Dubrovnik's cuisine blends Mediterranean traditions with Balkan and Italian influences; a gastronomic paradise rich in seafood, olive oil and fresh vegetables.
Back at Hotel Excelsior, Sensus restaurant skillfully blends contemporary and traditional flavours, while Salin offers a lavish breakfast buffet with yet another captivating view. Yet, my heart truly belongs to Prora, the hotel’s waterside gem, set on a stone terrace framed by graceful arches. Prora's menu is a poetic masterpiece, where sea bream tartare dances on the palate. We are serenaded by local musicians as we sip Istrian whites, while the city lights twinkle on the water, napkins drift from tables in the evening breeze and waves gently caress the feet of unsuspecting diners. Prora doesn't merely epitomise romance; it writes the love story and I'm hooked.
As Monday morning dawns, I say goodbye to Hotel Excelsior, having condensed an entire summer of coastal and culinary adventures into one exquisite weekend. With a final plunge into the Adriatic, I devour every last delicious second before the flight back to London. Next week, I'll be wrestling with my local lido's archaic booking system for a dip in chillier water of a less vivid shade of blue.
To learn more about the hotel, or book a room, click here.
