Weekends Away - The Kent Coast
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City life is lovely, but we all need time away – and few places reset body and mind quite like Kent, with its rolling green hills, 350-odd miles of sunny coastline and booming food scene.
Start your Kentish jaunt with a bang (or rather the sound of popping corks) at Gusbourne Estate. Located on a gently sloping hillside in the county’s south, the land features rows of carefully tended vines which are rooted in moisture-retaining clay soil. Waving gently under the clouds scudding across the sky, the vines produce delicious rosés, chardonnays and blanc de blancs sparkling wine, which pair perfectly with Gusbourne’s generous tasting lunches. In keeping with the vineyard’s deep appreciation for their surrounds, the kitchen uses locally-sourced ingredients wherever possible, and my meal of crab terrine, chicken with pine nuts and black garlic, and chai and spiced plum dessert was gastronomic perfection, and excellent fuel for the journey to Dungeness.
A pebbled peninsula stretching out into the English Channel, Dungeness is something else altogether. The landscape hardly looks real; flat, wildflower-scattered grassland racing towards the sea, with the post-apocalyptic Dungeness power station a stark silhouette in the background. But there is so much more here than just sea and sky – although both are pretty spectacular. You can also pay a visit to Prospect Cottage, film director Derek Jarman’s home towards the end of his life, and Dungeness Snack Shack, to fuel up on the freshest lobster rolls. A drive further up the coast brings you to Deal, a classic Kent seaside town brimming with castles, beach huts and vintage and design stores. Stay at The Rose, a hotel made as much for the community as the guests that come to rest and revive. The dining room is all wood panelling, retro lighting and artful splashes of marine-inspired art, and meals here match the bold interiors – going forward, I shall demand that all my scallops are paired with wood sorrel and seaweed butter.
The Rose’s sister property, The Blue Pelican, found in a revamped waterfront townhouse, packs an equally phenomenal culinary punch; their Japanese fusion menu featuring crab croquettes that are the stuff of fried dreams, staggeringly fresh Dover sole and pickled vegetables worth travelling for. Upstairs you’ll find a sun-filled yoga studio and treatment rooms, where I ventured for a blissful hot stone massage, against which all future massages will be measured.
Lest the idea of leaving Kent crosses your mind, a stop-off in Whitstable will surely persuade you to stay a little longer. This charming coastal town has a high street packed with gems, with delectable French cuisine on offer at Birdies Restaurant, and incredible seafood at the pink-painted Wheelers Oyster Bar. Stay in cosy, dog-friendly, coastal-chic The Cottage(part of the Kip Hideaways collection, it’s packed with gorgeous details like ceramics from local potter Keith Brymer-Jones and vintage treasures aplenty) to be near the best spots, with Harbour Books and Blueprint Coffee & Books worth a look, and bakery Grain & Hearth a must-visit for their substantial grilled cheese sandwiches and sourdough workshops.
With all this and more, it would be impossible to leave Kent if you didn’t know that London wasn’t waiting for your return.
This story first appeared in our London Guide.
Words by Sarah Kelleher & Photographs by Liz Schaffer
Dungeness Snack Shack
The Blue Pelican, Deal
The Blue Pelican, Deal
A long lunch at Gusbourne Estate
Breakfast at The Rose, Deal
