An extract from the Italy Magazine
Words by Liz Schaffer & Photographs by Chiara Dalla Rosa
While walking, I’m often convinced that I’m struck by flashes of brilliance. Suddenly, when in the company of trees and wide open skies, I can put the world to rights, let my thoughts run their convoluted course, and feel remarkably calm in the process. It’s only when a hike draws to a close that I wonder if my revelations were more of a natural high than a soul-soothing moment of clarity.
So it didn’t seem out of character when, atop the Pistoiese Apennines, shaded by beech, maples and rowans, I scribbled these words in my notebook: ‘No matter the question, nature is always the answer.’ What did surprise me was that months later, back in the thrum of London life, this revelation still felt apt.
I was gripped by the urge to write while staying at Oasyhotel, a hideaway in northeast Tuscany dedicated to conservation and sustainability. Covering 1,000 hectares in the pristine, WWF-affiliated Dynamo Oasy Nature Reserve, the property is comprised of 16 eco-lodges, two restaurants, a wellness area, farmland, forest trails, a lake made for sundowners, and an abundance of space.
Perched above the world, Oasyhotel starts working its magic long before you actually arrive. This is a place that feels secluded and wild, and as you follow the serpentine road up from the valley floor, it’s hard to tear your eyes from the sea of green. The forest is punctuated by stone farmhouses, Stations of the Cross (this was once a pilgrimage route), fallen chestnuts (a traditional ingredient that can be turned into almost anything, from pasta to soup) and deer. These mountains are also home to wolves, porcupines, wild boars, foxes, dormice, woodpeckers and golden eagles, all of which are a little harder to spot.
As well as being involved in research and breeding programmes, the Oasyhotel team practice non-invasive agriculture and strive to be as sustainable as possible - something you notice in the lodges themselves. All have uninterrupted views of the surrounding peaks and creature comforts aplenty, yet could be removed without leaving a trace. Crafted from natural materials, they are spacious, contemporary nods to alpine architecture that ensure your focus remains firmly rooted in the world beyond your window, which you’ll no doubt be twitching to explore. You can cycle or horse-ride across dappled woodland, canoe on the lake, wake with the sun to a chorus of birdsong, and venture out under cover of darkness in search of wolves, which I did with guide extraordinaire, Giulia Ghinassi.
Our first expedition together involved foraging for mushrooms, a skill Giulia learnt from her grandfather. Moving through the autumnal foliage, I couldn’t help getting caught up in her passion for fungus, and her delight every time she spotted a deer. This excitement only grew after dark. And even if the wolves remained elusive during our moonlight ramble, I was aware that we were far from alone. Everything felt so heightened - from the rustle of leaves to the sharpness in the air - that as we ended our hike with a fireside aperitif, I felt compelled to dash off my note.
Sublime as time in nature can be, the most remarkable thing about Oasyhotel is just how dedicated it is to giving back. The hotel is linked with the Dynamo Foundation, an academy that hosts 10-day camps for children with chronic and serious illnesses. The aim is to allow them to experience things that might otherwise be impossible, from ziplining to climbing, alongside a range of other therapeutic activities. Run with help from more than 1,000 volunteers, the programme bolsters confidence, grows community and shows that everyone has a right to happiness.
So, ensconced in London, pondering my Oasyhotel escape, I can see why I got so caught up in the thrill of midnight walks and the magic of mushrooms; why I long to once again stargaze on a cedar-scented balcony and ride horses at sunrise. The entire experience was so much more than a natural high - and a brilliant reminder to always seek hotels with soul.
