Words & Photographs by Bronwyn Townsend

A week of bluebird skies and crisp autumn days had us hoping we’d spy a glimpse of Mt Fuji. I’d spent years crafting the perfect images in my mind. Her snow-dusted peak juxtaposed perfectly against the vibrant leaves of the turning maples. But as we departed Tokyo, weaving through the mountainous terrain beyond the frenetic capital, it became clear that Mother Nature had other plans.

Despite heavy fog that had descended over the lake, a patchwork of crimson and gold cut through the grey. A consistent pitter-patter echoed within the clear plastic umbrella I sheltered beneath - this would become the soundtrack to our days spent in Kawaguchiko. 

An hour and a half south-west of Tokyo sit the five lakes of Fuji, which offer some of the greatest vantage points for the iconic volcano. Among these, north of Fuji-San, rests the lakeside town of Kawaguchiko - a deceptively quiet place despite being home to the Fuji-Q theme park. Upon disembarking our coach beneath the low-hanging blanket of grey and drizzle, we were met with a riot of autumnal colour.

Ochre, crimson, tangerine and saffron set the foothills surrounding the lake alight, breathing new life into the region before the winter slumber settled.

Many flock to the shorefront of Lake Kawaguchi during sakura season; the pale pink and white blossoms creating a carpet in beneath wiry branches within just a few short weeks. However, autumn is the real star of the region’s seasonal shows. Japanese maples transform the famed ‘Maple Tunnel’ into a blazing inferno, from gold and amber to cherry reds.

It’s not just the hues of seasonal change that drew us to Kawakguchiko. The fertile volcanic landscape is also a place of solace for those looking to soak among mineral-rich waters. Eschewing bathing suits in favour of birthday suits, we slip into the steamy waters of our onsen - raindrops creating ripples before dissipating into the abyss. 

While our quest to capture Fuji-san in all her glory was thwarted, our odyssey of colour was met with equal enthusiasm; days defined by dappled hillsides and slow living. A reminder serendipity is one of travels greatest pleasures. 

For more Japanese adventures, check out our Japan magazine.