Photographs by Angela Terrell & Words by Isabelle Hopewell
There’s something special about returning to a place you adored as a child. Memory and reality entwine, and while wandering streets that feel deliciously familiar you may recall a dusty antiques store where you unearthed treasure in the form a wooden duck, frolicking through paddocks in search of turtles or watching summer storms rage from your grandparent’s wrap-around verandah. Everything seems to come with a story - albeit one that’s a little faded around the edges.
As wondrous as nostalgia can be though, it’s also remarkable to see just how much a destination has changed over the decades - or when it comes to Orange, taken on an entirely new persona. While this buzzing regional hub still feels like a bit of secret, Orange has grown into a true grande dame, a bolthole you look to when in need of a weekend of feasting, drinking and art aplenty.
Surrounded by the vineyards and pastures of the Central Tablelands, and overlooked by Mount Canobolas (an extinct volcano that’s at its most spectacular come sunset), Orange if elegant and relaxed, home to the art-filled Byng Street Hotel, Jumbled, a design store that’s doing wonders for Australia’s regional art community, and wineries like Ross Hill and Phillip Shaw (just two of the regions 80 vineyards) where it’s easy to sip and daydream the day away. Add to that country roads, artists’ studios and a host of fabulous foodie institutions, and weekend in Orange may not be quite enough. Below is out guide to some of this town’s gems.
Drink: A revered cool-climate wine region, Orange’s wineries are adored for their elegant (and often experimental) flavours, as much as the stories that go with them. A visit to a winery will help you understand the dedication and time required to cultivate grapes, battle the elements, champion sustainability and produce magic in a bottle.
Swinging Bridge Wines - I adore Swinging Bridge not only for their chardonnay (buttery summer perfection) but because after stopping by their cellar door, artist Rishelle Kent - recognising the vines I’d shared on Instagram - reached out to say hello. The ensuing hour spent in her studio, waxing lyrical about landscapes and life, is something I think about every time I open a bottle.
Ross Hill Wines - Family run and entirely sustainable, Ross Hill is carbon neutral vineyard which proves that going green can lead to delicious results. Their offering’s unique flavours are influences by that basalt soil and high altitude (elements that also set their olive oil apart) and there are many tipples to adore: The Monocle riesling, with hints of orange blossom and frangipani, or the Monocle chardonay, all white peach and butterscotch. My favourite though was the Pinnacle shiraz, star anise giving it a fabulous, earthy edge.
Phiip Shaw Wines - Wonderfully unconventional - and with grounds that are a delight to ramble through - Philip Shaw boasts one of the country’s highest and coolest vineyards - meaning nighttime temperatures are low, autumns are long and wines feel particularly delicate. Their cellar door is found within and 130-year-old, art bedecked barn, which suits the character-packed wines perfectly. Give yourself time here and arrive peckish, because the paired tasting plate is a moreish joy.
Rowlee Wines - All I need to say about this fabulous find (one suggested to me by the team at Jumbled) is that the rose will make you smile.
Dine: There are few things more delightful than fabulous fare. There’s something about ingredients with a story, served in a venue with atmosphere, prepared by those who adore what they do that just makes you smile. If you fancy feasting in Orange (which, ahem, you absolutely should) can I recommend:
The Union Bank - This Orange institution, found within a heritage-listed schoolhouse building, is the domain of Rockpool trained Head Chef, Dom Aboud, who makes the most of the abundance of local ingredients (Orange is a food basket if ever there was one). Dishes are designed to be shared - which is a good thing, as it means your companion will understand the silent awe that befalls you with each new dish. When I mentored to artist Whitney Spicer that I was paying a visit, she wisely insisted I order the kingfish (with ponzu and chives), sirloin (with miso bagna cauda) and carrots (with créme fraiche, garlic butter and sage) - I also insist that you sample one of their charred jalapeño croquette. Utter atmospheric bliss.
Raku Izakaya - The first contemporary Japanese restaurant to open in town, Raku Izakaya works some serious culinary magic. It’s best to arrive hungry, as you’ll want to devour everyone on the menu … weeks later, I’m still thinking about their teriyaki tofu.
Byng St Boutique Hotel - Byng St Boutique Hotel is indeed a hotel, but the breakfast offerings - served beneath a fabulous piece from textile artist Natalie Miller - also earn it a spot on the culinary list. This hotel was once a grand family homestead known as ‘Yallungah’, and the historic facade remains today, restored (after 30 years of abandonment) to accentuate its heritage features. Historic elements like timber joinery, ornate brickwork and intricate stained glass windows blend seamlessly into the vibrant, modern addition.
Owners Thomas and Kristen Nock have more than 50 years of hospitality experience between them and had always loved the idea of running a small hotel, a place where the focus was on service and they would be on hand to interact with each and every guest. For them it was about celebrating Orange (a place they first visited when there were only a handful of wineries) and forging connections, making Byng St Boutique Hotel a vibrant, art-and-nook-dotted ‘home away from home’ you want to return to.
Art: Where exploring Orange’s artistic delights, you have to begin with Pip Brett and Jumbled - a concept store, art space and cafe hub. Although the white frontage of the old masonic hall hints at the exuberance found within, the art on display still takes you by surprise - the vibrancy and flair demanding your gaze as soon as you enter. Pip loves art and appreciates being part of a piece’s story. For her, the joy is in “seeing videos of the artist painting a piece in their studio, then unboxing it, then styling it, then packing it up again, and then seeing it in someone’s house.” It’s this attentiveness - paired with her positivity and passion - that’s seen her launch careers and encourage artistic independence for many rural creatives.
Madi Young is also an integral part of Orange’s artistic fraternity. She’s the powerhouse behind The Corner Store Gallery which, in a former life, was Thommo’s corner store, where she bought sweets as a kid in the 90s. Today it’s an airy space showcasing the work of emerging practitioners from across the country. What’s key, for Madi, is sharing her artists’ journeys. “When people come here they want to know about the person that made the thing. Their story resonates and becomes personal. One of the artists I found is a full-time nurse who started painting after her son died, and another picked up ceramics after having breast cancer. It’s therapy for many of them.” It’s this understanding that makes a visit to the gallery an intimate encounter - especially when you catch Madi painting in her attached studio. A passionate colourist, her canvases are overspread with curvilinear forms in bold hues that magically recreate the depth, serenity and light found in the bush. “I’m a pink, green, brown person normally,” says Madi. “I mix my own colours and like that there’s often something a bit ‘off’ about them. But I don’t think a painting looks finished unless there’s pink in it.”
Add to this the Orange Regional Gallery, Orange Art Trail (where a collection of local creatives invite visitors into their studios - ask Byng Street Hotel for details) and Orange Food Week and you have boundless artistic reasons to stay. All proud that Orange is a glorious, grown-up destination indeed.
To plan your own Orange escape, look to Orange360.
