Words & Images by Abigail Prowse
You’ve seen the Dolomite mountains. Undeniable in their dramatic beauty, in this subset of the Italian Alps rugged, snow-capped peaks dominate the lush landscape below. Appealing to both the adventurous traveller and those seeking a luxury escape, Italy’s northernmost mountain range is striking in every season, its tall pines punctuated only by a sprinkling of picture-book villages and sleek, modern hotels. But beneath the fairytale scenes, further east than many may venture, there’s a region which is still largely unknown: Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
Don’t be fooled by the area’s modest appearance and relative lack of glitz. Friuli-Venezia Giulia is a region which allows its beauty to speak for itself, its culture even today so deeply rooted in its history and traditions – perhaps more so than the rest of Italy. Governed by the nature which surrounds it (nestled, as it is, between mountain and sea) Friuli-Venezia Giulia prides itself on its simple way of life. Its people are hard-working, family-oriented, and infinitely warm; its towns and villages are dripping in intricately-preserved history; its food is hearty yet delicate, inspired by the rich agricultural traditions which exist here. Slow living is sacred, Sundays even more so.
Yet somehow Friuli-Venezia Giulia always seems to go unnoticed by those visiting Italy. Is it due to its position, tucked away from the rest of the country between the borders of Austria and Slovenia? Is it down to the locals, who work to preserve its traditions? Maybe it’s a combination of these factors – and most of Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s charm lies precisely within this air of the unspoilt and undiscovered.
Despite being one of Italy’s smallest regions , Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s culture is incredibly diverse. Each community will not only speak a different friuliano to the other, but will offer different culinary specialities, architectural styles, and even personality traits. Below is a taste of what some of the region’s prettiest towns and villages promise curious travellers.
Polcenigo (PN)
Polcenigo’s reputation within Friuli-Venezia Giulia is (rightfully) centred around its indisputable beauty - and what Polcenigo lacks in size it easily makes up for in charm. It is a village defined by the nature that surrounds it, the ancient cobblestones interrupted by fast-flowing, midnight-blue water on its way to meet the nearby Livenza River. Palm trees are dotted throughout the village, perfectly framing the rustic houses which sit sleepily along its roads and alleyways.
Anyone who visits Polcenigo will be unsurprised to discover that it is listed among the most beautiful villages in Italy; there is a sense of total calm and tranquillity which assails you upon stepping into its centre. Piazza Plebiscito is home to the elegant Locanda Fullini-Zaia, whose ample terrace overhangs the river and looks out across to the medieval Madonna della Salute church. Enjoy a late morning coffee here and simply allow life to wash over you.
A short 15-minute walk from the centre of Polcenigo will lead you to the Sorgente del Gorgazzo: an underwater cave ensconced in dense, leafy forest. It would be easy to overlook this natural phenomenon - which still remains a well-kept secret even among locals - but to do so would be a mistake. Following the aptly-named Via Sorgente, which hugs the picturesque rapids of the river, will slowly plunge you into a cocoon of vegetation which, during the autumn months, dazzles in shades of gold, ochre and rust. At the end of this path, after crossing a series of short wooden bridges, is a clearing framed by steep, rugged stone; at the centre of this clearing is a natural pool of inconceivable blue. Here, by the Sorgente del Gorgazzo, the only sound is the nearby rushing of water, sunlight streaking through the canopy and dappling the surface of the spring. The incredible clarity of the water even allows you to see the underwater statue of Jesus Christ which sits nine metres below the spring’s surface.
Barcis (PN)
Nothing can quite prepare you for the sight which greets you as you arrive in Barcis from Montereale Valcellina. Passing through a series of long tunnels which slice through the mountains, it is easy to forget your surroundings; but as you are spat into blinding daylight, you find yourself suddenly encircled by snow-capped peaks. This is the backdrop against which the town of Barcis is set. Like many towns and villages in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Barcis is governed by nature – in this case, by its eponymous lake.
Recognised as much for the brilliant yet unusual green of its waters as for its dramatic landscape, the Lago di Barcis evolves from season to season. During the spring and summer, Barcis is a hotspot for thrill-seekers and sportsmen, offering a range of activities from hiking and mountain biking to kayaking and scuba diving. As autumn and winter approach, Barcis quietens, becoming a coveted destination for those looking to immerse themselves undistractedly in nature.
The town itself is sleepy in the quieter seasons, composed of clusters of Alpine-style houses and cabins which sit in the shadow of the mountains. A series of cafés, bars and restaurants are speckled across its centre, seeming to crowd, as visitors do, towards the lungolago: a lakeside promenade with panoramic views across the water. Do not leave Barcis without sampling the area’s flavourful charcuterie, including petuccia and brusaula, which are both rich and hearty in flavour.
Maniago (PN)
The heart of pocket-sized Maniago can be found in its graceful Piazza Italia: a wide expanse of light stone decorated with an ornate multi-level fountain. Rows of pastel terraced houses neatly frame the square, handfuls of tables artfully scattered at its centre. It is this sense of organised simplicity and elegance that defines the town of Maniago, which is celebrated the world over for its artisan production of knives and steel blades. The history of the town’s blacksmiths dates back to the 1400s, and serves as a perfect example of the stubbornness and pride with which Friulians defend their traditions.
In 1960, the Consorzio Coltellinai di Maniago was born: a collective of local companies promoting the art of knife-crafting around the globe, each supported by the ‘Made in Italy’ quality stamp. If you’re hoping to pick up a new set of professional kitchen knives, then their slick, modern storefront in Piazza Italia is the place to visit. For delicious regional food, nearby Antica Trattoria Tre Torri is resplendent in exposed stone, local artwork, and bottles of wine in every corner. Dating back to 1950, the restaurant is ensconced by a quaint, shaded courtyard – once the town convent. A palimpsest of Maniago’s history, this trattoria is beloved for its homely Friulian specialities, such as frico and San Daniele cured ham.
Following the leafy, stone-clad pathway of Via Castello will lead you, unsurprisingly, to Maniago’s castle, which sits perched atop a hill rising from the town centre. Although the castle itself has been reduced to ruins by years of wear, tear, conflict and earthquakes, it remains no less fascinating; the real beauty, however, lies in the climb. Remember to cast a glance over your shoulder as you tread your way to the top: the panorama across the rooftops of Maniago and beyond is nothing short of breathtaking.
Fagagna (UD)
Journeying east from the Province of Pordenone, you’ll cross the Tagliamento River and venture into Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s largest province: Udine. Considered the beating heart of Friulian culture, this province blankets more than half the region, stretching from the Adriatic coast and seeping through the mountainous area of Carnia. It is huddled at the foot of these mountains that you’ll find the village of Fagagna.
The epicentre of this village is undeniably its castle. Like many medieval fortresses in the area, the castle today is composed primarily of ruins, the remaining church tower proudly reaching toward the sky. The region’s iconic vineyards wind their way around the castle hill, their palette changing with the seasons, altering the landscape around them. A rustic yet elegant restaurant now resides at the base of this tower, where local home cooking is served onto scarlet tablecloths. Climb to the Castello di Fagagna at sunset for unparalleled views across Friuli-Venezia Giulia and over to the hazy outline of the mountains.
Beneath the castle, the village centre is charming, traditional, and characteristically sleepy. Low stone farmhouses – a nod to the area’s rich agriculture – have now been restored into cosy family homes, where bright flowerboxes protrude into the streets. The main square, Piazza Unità d’Italia, is best visited in the early evening, as locals slowly make their way to historic Caffè Centrale for their aperitivo.
Gemona (UD)
Upon first glance at this majestic town, whose houses cling like ivy to the rugged face of the Dolomites, you would never imagine the hardship and sacrifice it has come to represent. Because beneath the ochre buildings and elegant stonework of Gemona lies both a troubled, pain-stricken past and a resilience characteristic of the Friulian people. When, in 1976, the region was struck by a devastating earthquake with a magnitude of 6.5, the town of Gemona was to bear the brunt of this disaster, which left more than 157,000 people in the area homeless.
Although the town now has been completely rebuilt – where possible, using the original stones from fallen buildings – the memory still lingers for many. It is in this way that Gemona has come to represent the heart, will and resilience for which Friulians are so well-loved, quickly becoming one of the region’s most widely-visited destinations. You can’t help but feel, as you wander the warren-like streets of the town centre, a sense of hope and lightheartedness which oozes from the stonework of Gemona’s houses.
And it is easy to feel inspired in such an awe-striking setting. Gaps between the buildings here drop away suddenly to reveal endless stretches of green, encased by the region’s distinctive mountain backdrop. Standing at the edge of the Piazza del Ferro, or even up in the grounds of the iconic castle, is akin to standing at the edge of the world; the entirety of Friuli-Venezia Giulia is laid out before you in a patchwork of brilliant greens, golds and oranges. Before leaving, grab a creamy gelato from Il Gelatiere in Piazza Garibaldi.
As you plan your next visit to the land of la dolce vita, consider breaking away from the well-trodden tourists trails of Florence, Rome and Venice. Cast aside your guidebooks instead in favour of a more authentically Italian experience along the foothills of the Dolomites of Friuli-Venezia Giulia; you’ll leave already yearning to come back for more.
