Words & Photographs by Chiara Dalla Rosa
Snow-capped mountains accompany us as we drive towards Courmayeur, our gateway to the Aosta Valley. These breathtaking views offer a captivating preview of the experiences awaiting us, with nature clearly set to be the star of our trip.
After leaving our luggage at Hotel Maison Saint Jean, our journey begins at Chalet Val Ferret, where we savour local charcuterie and traditional dishes, immersing ourselves in the region's essence. I opt for the gnocchi with gorgonzola cheese and pear, a delicious dish to fuel me for the hike ahead. The gentle trail my friends and I are following offers stunning alpine views and encounters with inquisitive marmots. With more than 300 walking routes to explore, the Aosta Valley provides endless opportunities to get amongst its dramatic landscapes.
Passing the 1,000-year-old Pré de Bard glacier, we catch sight of Rifugio Elena, our destination perched at 2,061 metres above sea level. This hut, a haven for hikers embarking on the renowned Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB), one of Europe’s most popular long-distance treks, is the ideal place to rest before starting our descent.
If you're craving high-altitude thrills (and want them as fast as possible), then look to the SkyWay Monte Bianco. This marvel of engineering whisks you from Courmayeur to Punta Helbronner (at 3,466 meters above sea level) in just 18 minutes. Its 360° rotating gondolas deliver out-of-this-world views of Europe’s highest peaks. It’s an unforgettable visual feast.
Although an unexpected blanket of clouds had descended upon arrival, I was fortunate enough to glimpse Dente del Gigante (Giant’s Tooth), a dramatic spiky summit within the Monte Bianco massif. After braving the brisk breeze, we find refuge in Bistrot Panoramique Punta Helbronner, where we enjoy a meal while basking in yet more soaring views.
Returning to a lower altitude, we’re eager to lace up our walking boots once more. In La Thuile, we meet Ettore, our guide for the afternoon, and embark on a leisurely hike to explore the Rutor Waterfalls, natural wonders that feed the Dora River. Unable to resist, I find myself repeatedly stopping to take in the details: the warm, variegated hues of the cedar trees, the rugged grey slate, and the rich auburn tones of the boulders around us. Upon reaching our destination, a vibrant rainbow arcs through the mist of the cascading falls. With our goal for the day accomplished, we trot down quickly, eager to return to Chalet Eden, where a relaxing sauna and aperitivo by the river await us.
The following morning brings a new adventure, this time on two wheels. Although I’ve tried e-biking before, this experience is more raw and intense. We board one of the chairlifts in La Thuile which takes us up to the start of a freeride track. From there, we ascend to 2,400 metres, pushing ourselves to new heights. At the top, the alpine panorama leaves me spellbound. A sublime blend of awe and fear washes over me as I feel the immense power of nature feeding my soul - a sensation that is equal parts peaceful and overwhelming. And the excitement continues as we begin our downhill ride. If you’re craving the rush of speed, this heart-pounding experience is exactly what you’ve been waiting for.
After our exhilarating ride, we’re elated to sit down for lunch at Lo Riondet, a charming family-run restaurant. The menu features locally sourced dishes and wild game hunted by the owners. During our meal, we chat with Dan, our mountain bike guide, who is clearly besotted with the area. “I love the trails here,” he says with a smile. “This region offers natural bike parks with Alpine terrain, something I’m addicted to.” As he accompanies us back, we ask about his plans for the rest of the day. His eyes light up as he reveals that he’s heading back up the mountain for another downhill session, a true testament to his passion for the sport.
On our final day in the Aosta Valley, we explore its capital, a city rich in Roman history and shaped by eclectic cultural influences, situated at the crossroads of France and Switzerland. With Hotel Duca d’Aosta as our base, we spend the day sightseeing and museum-hopping. We delve into the Roman heritage, discovering how the ancient city was constructed. We visit Issogne Castle, where we read stories etched on the walls by past guests. We also explore the charming Bard Fortress, home to the Museum of the Alps and a filming location for one of the Marvel movies. To round off our visit, we indulge in some delicious cheese and salumi at Erbavoglio before bidding a fond farewell, at least for now, to this breathtaking region.
This is an experience I will treasure and revisit in my memories time and again. It’s remarkable how much we accomplished in just a few days. Nature was undeniably the highlight of this journey; I felt its presence all around us and understood why locals hold such deep affection for their beloved region. Once you’ve explored this beautiful land, you’ll undoubtedly find yourself drawn back.
To learn more about Aosta Valley and discover all the activities you can embark on, check out their website aosta-valley.co.uk
