Overlooking the Coly Valley in sunny East Devon, Glebe House is a six-bedroomed retreat (with a cabin) that, despite being only a short, serpentine drive from the Jurassic Coast, feels far from the madding crowd (excuse the line, but this is Thomas Hardy country after all). This guesthouse is a true pastoral escape, a place where the landscape is celebrated, slowing down becomes an art, and evenings begin with sunset cocktails as you watch cows saunter though the neighbouring paddock.
Known as a restaurant with rooms - or rooms with a chef - dinner is the star attraction, whipped up by chef and Glebe House co-owner Hugo Guest, who grew up here and is passionate about local produce and the slow food ethos. Everything tastes as if it’s just been plucked from the earth, pulled moments ago from the tiled oven or cured in his purpose-built ageing room.
Much of the decor is the work of Olive Guest, a third generation artist who paints brilliantly-hued abstract landscapes. The eclectic array of vibrant art is balanced by the home’s Georgian bones, and the chic bohemian vibe. There’s a glass entrance draped in vines and canvases, hand-painted lampshade inspired by the Bloomsbury set, and newly-upholstered vintage furniture in every pattern imaginable. Few places feel quite so brilliantly creative, or come with such bucolic views.
This description was written for Slow Travel Britain - a book to devour is you’re keen to explore England, Scotland and Wales.
To capture the Glebe House magic (until you can visit of course), the team have shared one of their fab seasonal recipes.
A Warm Autumnal Salad of Winter Mustard Leaves, Roasted Squash, Braised Shallots & Walnut Dressing
Ingredients:
- A mix of peppery winter mustard leaves (such as at wild rocket, mizuna, red and green mustard frills)
- 1/4 crown prince squash, seeded, and cut into chunks
- tsp dried chilli flakes
- tsp dried oregano
- 4 shallots
- 1 cup walnuts, heavily toasted and roughly chopped
- 1/4 cup light olive oil
- Zest of 1 lemon
- 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
- Juice of 1/2 lemon
- Grated pecorino cheese, to finish
- Salt and pepper to taste
Instructions:
1. Preheat your or oven to a high heat (200deg)
2. In a large bowl, toss the squash squash with a good glug of olive oil, dried chilli flakes, oregano, salt, and pepper. Roast the squash until it is tender and slightly caramelized, about 20-25 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
3. At the same time as the squash, place the whole unpeeled shallots on a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil and roast until they are soft and gooey. Circa 30mins. Set aside to cool slightly.
4.While the shallots and squash are roasting, prepare the walnut dressing. In a blender or food processor, pulse the toasted walnuts until they resemble bread crumbs. (NB you still want a bit of texture and crunch from the walnuts)
5. Transfer the blitzed walnuts to a bowl and add the light olive oil, lemon zest, grated Parmesan cheese, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Mix well until all the ingredients are combined and resemble a loose dressing/pesto. Season with salt and pepper.
6. Once the shallots have cooled slightly, peel off their skin and slice them into thick rounds, season with salt and pepper.
7. In a large serving bowl, arrange the mustard leaves. Top with chunks of warm roasted squash and the roasted shallots.
8. Drizzle the walnut dressing over the salad, tossing gently to coat all the ingredients.
9. Finish the salad with a generous sprinkle of grated pecorino cheese.
10. Serve the warm autumnal salad immediately.
