Words by Liz Schaffer & Photographs by Basel Tourismus
I always return to Switzerland, a petite nation whose borders are dictated by mountains, glaciers and lakes. It is the homeland of absinthe and sweet chocolate; a place of espionage and escapades, debauchery and flair. There are noir overtones, healing waters and landscapes that rob you of words. Stunning and serene, it is a country that, no matter how frequently I visit, always takes me by surprise. In the past, I’ve swooned over pristine ski fields, artistry and wine. But on my recent jaunt to Basel, I learnt anew just how refreshingly glorious a city break can be.
A city break requires a few key ingredients. You need somewhere fabulous to rest your head, at least three faultless restaurants, a gallery where the curation and setting are equally mesmeric, lashings of history, and a body of water that soothes the soul. While this may sound like a tall order, it turns out Basel fits the bill swimmingly.
On the hotel front, you have the swish Hotel Märthof Basel. This welcoming bolthole (which boasts a turreted exterior, paired with a contemporary interior design) overlooks Basel’s market square, which is filled most mornings with stalls laden with local produce and guarded by the fresco-adorned Town Hall. While cloud-like beds are a treat, and the roof terrace is perfect for sundowners, I must tip my hat to Märthof’s breakfast - the best part of any hotel stay. Indeed, I would roll out of Restaurant Bohemia each morning feeling blissfully over-indulged.
Which brings us to the second city break ingredient: food. There are few places more scrumptious than Restaurant Krafft. Elegant and light-filled, the indoor dining room looks a little like a ballroom, complete with herringbone floors, arched windows, river views, and covetable chandeliers. Most of Krafft's ingredients hail from the surrounding countryside, and their dishes are vibrant, flavourful and fun. I’m still thinking about the marinated char paired with dill and pickled onion - the combination so delicious it may just bring a tear to your eye. The Swiss trout and cauliflower was a colourful joy, and when sampling the famed apple tarte tatin, I understood why patrons plan their entire trip around this dessert.
Alchemist is equally inviting. At this restaurant, you’re encouraged to play with your food, and entering the herb-filled, gold-splashed space, you feel like you’ve stepped into a cabinet of curiosities. Cocktails come together at your table and the daring dishes (inspired by recipes from across the globe) are designed to be shared. Those after a delectable vegan or vegetarian feast should make for Restaurant Lauch (German for leek), where ingredients are local, sustainability is key, and natural wines round out the ever-changing menu.
In many Basel eateries, you find that the calm, classic exteriors often hide a vibrant internal world - the amount of verve flowing within will constantly take you by surprise. This rang true at Neue Alte Markthalle, a buzzing collection of international food stalls, and KLARA Bar, where I’d like all future nights out to end.
Ultimately though, the most vital city break ingredient is a certain joie de vivre … which Basel has in spades. It is the Swiss epicentre of art and architecture, and home to almost 40 museums - many of which were initially built around private collections. Basel is an undeniably wealthy city. For more than two centuries it was renowned for its lucrative silk ribbon production, and the related knowledge of chemicals and dyes saw it evolve into a pharmaceutical powerhouse. Yet since the 19th century, there has been a conscious desire to invest this money in art, architecture and innovation. Indeed, it has not only helped galleries flourish, but has made projects like Smart City Lab Basel possible too.
Found in an old SSB building (the train company co-founded the enterprise), Smart City Lab is a collection of sustainable start-ups dedicated to saving the world through up-cycling, recycling and finding the best ways to use a city’s space. It is a hub of knowledge sharing and environmental problem solving, with companies releasing solar panels that follow the sun, sensor operated street lights that measure noise pollution and air quality (because knowledge is power), and a long-distance, super-smart bicycle highway. There’s even an architectural group specialising in structures created from reused building materials. Each project is a reminder that every action, no matter how small, has the potential to change the planet.
And then there’s the landscape, which is entwined with art and design. You can cycle, hike or tram through Basel and the neighbouring German countryside as you tackle the Rehberger-Weg route, which links Fondation Beyeler to Vitra Campus (a design-lovers nirvana), and is peppered with 24 sculptural ‘waymarkers’ from artist Tobias Rehberger.
Few places make me as happy as the garden-framed Fondation Beyeler, reached via a short, bucolic tram ride past a sea of allotments and smatterings of sunflowers. The gallery is dedicated to Classic Modernism, and a Mondrian exhibition was taking place during our visit - but the permanent collection brims with works that are easy to get lost within. In fact, I was so caught up in a Rothko that I barely noticed the wall of glass behind me, which revealed a swath of orchards, fields and German mountains.
Despite being the country’s smallest Canton, Basel punches above its weight on the cultural front. It was the site of Switzerland’s first university and home to Erasmus of Rotterdam, and history remains ever-present. Some streets follow the wends of Roman roads - which were built above paths likely carved out by the Celts - and Baroque, Renaissance and medieval buildings keep perfect company. But when you turn your attention to Basel’s modern structures, you’ll spy creations from 12 Pritzker Prize-winners - from Frank Gehry to Herzog & de Meuron. Rooftops host bars, summer sees locals float down the aquamarine Rhine and festivals fill the calendar. There is joie de vivre indeed.
For centuries travellers have come to Switzerland in search of the divine - to walk in the footsteps of those they adore, scale improbable peaks, seek decadence and debauchery, grand hotels and great escapes. I first glimpsed the country’s grandeur when putting together the Switzerland magazine, and it was wonderful to savour it anew, all these years later. Crossing Mittlere Brücke on my final Basel morning (a bridge first opened in 1226), I took a moment to appreciate the unexpected joys of a city break - how wonderful it is to be caught up in art, food and life, and to feel that you truly belong … even if it’s just for a weekend.
To plan your own city break, check out This Is Basel’s brilliant suggestions - and for more Swiss ideas, there’s always the Switzerland magazine.
