Words & Photographs by Isabelle Hopewell.
One of the most glorious things about winter is that there are wonderful ways to escape it - sunny destinations a few hours flight away that will remind you just how glorious it is to feel the sun on your skin. Being in the market for a winter getaway, desperate to unwind somewhere dreamy and bougainvillea-bedecked, lusting after a leisurely dip and rather heavenly hammam, I set my sights on a secluded, family-friendly and just-a-little-bohemian Moroccan hideaway.
A short drive from the port city of Essaouira (famed for its medina and Atlantic sunsets) is the blush-hued Le Jardin des Douars. Design-centric and immediately welcoming, this boutique hotel is framed by rivers, sun-baked earth and argan trees. The grounds themselves abound in vibrant, bloom-filled gardens, domed rooms, palms, pools (one for families, the other for adults only), peacocks, labyrinthine pathways and a hammam you’re sure to fall in love with. Summer here would be a joy, spring a wonder, but in winter - when everything is sun-drenched and thriving - it was exactly where I wished to be.
I was at Le Jardin des Douars to calm my body and mind, to escape a London December and see just how many books I could devour - both by the fire (found in the main restaurant and in our room), or beside the jade-tiled, bar-accompanied infinity pool. In four days I numbered three, a personal record. For here there is no sense of urgency, and nowhere to be. A day in repose is perfectly acceptable - especially if you choose to indulge in the marble-adorned hammam, where treatments (that incorporate argan oil produced by local women’s cooperatives) leave you feeling silky, smooth and without a care in the world.
Of course, should you wish to do more than simply unwind, there are activities aplenty, all of which Le Jardin des Douars are happy to book/curate for you. You could horse ride or kite surf along Essaouira’s beach, bike, buggy or venture out into the nearby dunes; or - as we did - wander the city’s ramparts, feast in its restaurants (oh my word the seafood), peruse the food market, purchase an assortment of rugs and oils, and then watch the sun dip below the horizon as the sea and sky glow the most dazzling shades of lilac and indigo.
An astounding amount of time can also be spent admiring the Le Jardin des Douars’ decor. The works of local artist and makers are on display and highly covetable. Colour reigns - in water features, textured rugs, glass lanterns, hand woven soft furnishings, pottery and prints. These are made wondrous when set against terracotta, carved wood, ornate tiles, painted doors and wrought iron.
In this hotel, it’s about the detail - the subtle embellishments that make the space feel both luxurious and homely. There are quiet corners, hidden terraces, dappled sun lounges, sculptural objets d'art and - in the hammam - stars upon the ceiling.
And then there’s the food. Should the hotel be your base - the hideaway you have no desire to leave - then know that the restaurant has you covered. The menu is seasonal, fresh and perfectly spiced, and after a few breakfasts it’s impossible to depart without an addiction to their honey-like dates and improbably creamy goat cheese - the latter made spectacular by the fact that you can see local shepherds hearing their flocks over the hills just across the river. For something more secluded, their is an intimate, adults-only, mirror-and-art-adorned dining area, and a terrace perfect for breakfasts and leisurely lunches.
What’s strange about Le Jardin des Douars is that no matter how many nights you book here, the time will somehow disappear. You’ll lose yourself while warmed by evening fires, soaking in rose-petal-filled baths and bobbing in water surrounded by bougainvillea. This is a hotel to fall in love with, to unwind within, and to return to … in all seasons.
To learn more or book a room, click here.
