Liz Schaffer 2/1/24 Liz Schaffer 2/1/24

A Moveable Feast

A jaunt aboard the VSOE.

For over a century Switzerland has been synonymous with train travel; an assortment of scenic lines first appearing across the country, in part, to make the wanderings of those early, enterprising tourists that much easier. Travellers, the majority of whom hailed from England, were drawn to the wilds and wonders of Switzerland, craving pristine air, dustings of snow and landscapes that weren’t entirely real. In their wake came wealth and esteem, and an appreciation for seeing the world by rail. So, with Switzerland in particular, and Europe in general, indebted to trains - with lakes and improbable heights made more dramatic by movement - it felt right to pay homage to history and traverse the continent aboard a truly decadent vestige of the past, Belmond’s Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (VSOE).

And so I found myself in Venice on a sunny April morning, drunk on canals and piazzas and preparing to board this gilt and indigo icon, failing in every conceivable way to conceal my excitement. Tom, my camera-wielding travel companion, was lost somewhere along the platform, darting between delightfully-attired fellow passengers, the train his muse. As it should be, for this is a journey designed to galvanise; something from the glory days of travel - an era made spectacular by the mystique of nostalgia. The Venice to London VSOE experience may only last 36 hours but it’s accompanied by decades of care and romance.

An extract from our Switzerland magazine, which you can order here.

Words by Liz Schaffer & rather delightful photographs by Tom Bunning.

Liz Schaffer 3/3/21 Liz Schaffer 3/3/21

Swiss Heights

Hiking in Vals - a Swiss alpine wonderland.

Words & Photography by Mercedes Catalan

Vals is a small, dreamy village in Switzerland’s Canton Graubunden. It sits in a deep valley surrounded by green mountains, forests and farms. It is a village known for its water (home to Valser, one of the most famous mineral waters in Switzerland) and thermal baths (like the stunning 7132 Therme, designed by Peter Zumthor), and despite boasting a two Michelin star restaurant (7132 Silver), Vals remains quiet and peaceful, even in summer, making it an ideal escape for city-dwellers craving the calm of nature. Somehow though, its still feels like a bit of a secret. Indeed, on many of my hikes, I found myself alone for hours, only crossing paths with the occasional farmer or village local.

I took these photos during three different hikes. The first day we walked around Zervreilasee, or Zervreila Lake, a reservoir found at 1,862 metres above the sea level and surrounded by impressive mountains of more than 3,000 metres. We walked around the lake, admiring the reflections of the Zervreilahorn, the very sharp peak that is nicknamed ‘the Matterhorn of Graubunden’. It was a beautiful day walking along the water. The alpine flowers were in full bloom, specially the alpenrose, and butterflies were fluttering around us while we trekked.

The second day I started walking also at Zervreilasee, but I went higher following the ‘Drei Seen Wanderung’ (The Trail of the Three Lakes). This day we walked higher and longer and encountered all kinds of weather - patches of snow, a hailstorm, fog, sun and heat. We met many marmots along the way and enjoyed watching them play in the sun in meadows full of flowers. There were also alpine farms, and curious cows aplenty, and we bought slices of alpine cheese directly from farmers. Towards the end of the hike, we meet around 200 goats while they were wandering - as they do every day - from the alpine pastures to their farm.

The third day was a very foggy one. We wanted to hike to the mountain pass of Patnaulpass and, from there, to Faltschonhorn if the weather allowed us (it didn't). This was a harder hike, and the entire day was spent mostly in fog, but the views when the clouds opened for fleeting moments were truly beautiful. For me, these images are a reminder of how wonderful it will be when we can once again return to the hills.

For more Swiss travel, check out our Switzerland magazine by clicking here.

Liz Schaffer 11/4/19 Liz Schaffer 11/4/19

Swiss Seasons

Heading down the mountain.

Photographer Mercedes Catalan has long called Switzerland home and - as well as contributing to our Switzerland magazine - has spent much of her time roving around the county capturing its landscapes, people and festivities. One of her more recent projects saw her document the festival of Alpabfahrt in the towns of Entlebuch (where one of the largest celebrations takes places - complete with yodelling) and Elm (a little village in canton Glarus). During the festival farmers drive the flower-festooned cattle from their Alpine summer pastures to their winter stables - and the images are suitably divine.

Liz Schaffer 10/29/14 Liz Schaffer 10/29/14

Tour Mont Blanc

Passing through Italy, France and Switzerland and circling the mighty peak that is Mont Blanc, the aptly named Tour Mont Blanc is one of the world's great walks. Passing scenes capable of inducing wobbly knees, a mix alpine cottages, glacial remains, snow capped mountains and valleys that stretch into eternity, the walk, which takes a week to complete, is for those predisposed to wanderlust. Aided by a mule called Coco and fuelled by a diet of bread and cheese (the wine would prove too heavy to carry), my own venture around the mountain has been etched into my memory - the thick forests, mirror-like lakes and towns abandoned by time are not something you ever really forget.